Thursday, November 6, 2008

Soweto Township Tour

One of the best things we did while in Johannesburg was to go on a guided tour through Soweto Township. Having just experienced the Apartheid Museum it really gave a historical context to what we were seeing. Our guide was the amazing… a woman about our age who lived in Soweto until recently.

What to say about that tour? Well, as I’m writing this several days (and many towns later) I can say the poverty and housing situations are not limited to the bigger cities in the North East area of the country but they seem to have more of it. I also want to make it clear that I only photographed the novel/interesting stuff. The grocery stores, lower middle class looking neighborhoods (where Archbishop Desmond Tutu still lives omg) I didn't photograph. But there are there and in full use. Soweto was a crappy place to live, now tourism may be turning it around.

So let's see some touristy things....

The row houses you see in this picture are former miners houses from earlier in the 1900s.












Now you see the inspiration for the quilt to the right. : )

Men from neighboring countries would come in on the train and work the mines all over South Africa so you see these houses outside of many former mining towns. They aren’t too different from the houses near our house in Gaborone but, lined up as they are, it’s clear they were meant to be temporary dorms rather than neighborhoods. Since the 90s many of those houses have been turned over to the occupants after it was discovered that the cumulative rent paid is many more times what the land is worth now. So that's good.

And now KIDS!!! We went into the neighborhood you see in the pic above and visited an orphanage. They sang for us and smiled for our pictures
Orphanages and day care facilities are important in townships because honestly suffice to say, it sucks being a kid in Africa and these facilities keep them safe during the day. At night time they stay with people in the community who are paid to take care of them. We gave the women running it a few Rand and were again on our way.

**After re-reading our tour guide’s bio, I think her tours are a major source of funding for the facility. It was cheerful, the kids were runny nosed, inquisitive and adorable. There was at least one sneaky on though. According to one of the other tour members, one of them stole her water bottle out of her bag. Who knows. We were fine. Speaking of bags, I didn’t sneak any kids into my backpack though was mighty tempted. They were super cute.**

From there we drove by the water towers, one now painted to reflect the area's history. Rumor has it there is a company the offers bungee jumping in them now. The tv show, The Amazing Race set up a tightrope walk between them in a recent season. We did neither of these things because, theory or law, we respect gravity.

Next a look at one of one of the more run down neighborhoods.Notice the miner’s houses in the background beyond the field.

We went into this neighborhood and were led around by a 18ish y/o girl who lives there. I’m sorry I didn’t take any pictures. I’m still not comfortable taking people’s pictures and was trying not to act the awkward tourist buy snapping photo’s of people’s homes. Maybe in a trip or two. Lance on the other hand...

So the girl took us to her home. Metal sheeting walls and a dirt floor but it was tidy. Her older sister and father were also there and we talked with him about sending the older sister to college and her hopes for the future. A few more Rand to our subcontracted tour guide and we were on the road again.

At this point, I’m realizing that our tour guide is really helping a lot of people back in Soweto. It was she who continually insisted that we not just take photo’s from afar but meet the people and get to know what their lives are like. "This is not a game drive" she would say. Of course the people we are visiting get donations for their time and openness so everyone wins.

Rather tough to visit was the Hector Pieterson Memorial and museum. It was here that our tour guide told us that she was a also student at the rally Hector was killed at and was friends with his sister. Giving these tours started out as sort of a therapy for her. She said in her job she meets people who were on all sides of apartheid's history and enjoys when she can help someone get a little more closure on the issue. She talked about a retired cop who came to her in tears and told here where he had buried the body of a child 20+ years ago so she could tell the family so a proper burial could be arranged. It was sobering to say the least.

So that was Soweto. Since then we have seen similar townships around many of the cities we have seen in South Africa. They seem to be the biggest in the northeast but that could just be due to more new immigrants settling there rather then continuing south. Lance is reading Nelson Mandela’s autobiography and said when Nelson was young he moved to Johannesburg to make a living. Heck, the name translates to Place of Gold in many African languages. Who could resist?

Viva El Taco!

Yeah, I'll take one black beret burrito, a side of counterculture chips and and large socialism soda please....

Let's Do The Time Warp Again...

So, assuming I haven't lost you all with my highly edited but still opinionated mini rants, Ready! Set! Go! now rewards you with the lost entries of South Africa.

Has sort of an Allan Quartermain feel to it doesn't it?

OK, lets all hop in our blog powered time machines and go back to a simpler time. A time when lunch often consisted of dry cereal and soda. A time when we had to watch out for monkeys/donkeys/cattle/chickens/roosters/goats walking in the middle of the road.

A time roughly a month and a half ago.

Most of this was written while on the road, late a night in hotel rooms with no internet. (see how much I love you? say you'll forgive me for the last week's posts.)

So now we travel back.... back... back.... to Johannesburg, South Africa.


_______________________________
OK, I can go back to Botswana... I'VE BEEN TO A SOUTH AFRICAN QUILT SHOW!!!!!

Happy dance! Happy dance!

Oh and we went to a military history museum where we learned tons and Lance got his "History Guy" thing on. See, here's a picture:














BUT THEN WE WENT TO A QUILT SHOW!!!!

South African quilters got it going on. The theme was "Shosholoza" which is a Zulu word meaning to "go forward" or "make way for the next man." Many of the quilts had a we are on the right track or South African pride feeling to them. As you can see below. I'll be posting all the pictures I took here:


Here is a link to the whole album if you would like to take your time... I had just over 2 hours to do the whole show which is why some of the photos are a wee bit blurry and off center.
South Africa Quilt Show 2008

Much to my dismay you were not allowed to take pictures of the Tri-Nations quilts (South Africa, New Zealand and Australia) or Japanese quilts. I was actually given stern talking to by one of the ladies doing white glove duty for "accidentally" taking a photo in the Tri-Nations area. A word to the non quilting community: don't tick us off... we deal with rotary cutters on a daily basis.

Notable things at the show:

1) A Dear Jane display by one of the local guilds. Wow! Gorgeous! And what a great way to take advantage of all the different German Prints or ShweShwe as it was originally called by the locals.2) I learned a little more back story about the ShweShwe: The name comes from the sound the new fabric would make as you walked.

Shwe.

Shwe.

Shwe.

Like corduroy.

When European settlers and missionaries came to what would become South Africa they were taken aback by the ... ahem... limited clothing worn by the women. Specifically they seemed to only be modest about the bottom half of their bodies. Telegrams were sent back to England asking for affordable cloth thus you have the introduction of ShweShwe to Africa.

3) Japanese quilts are breathtaking. I am in awe. I am humbled. I am motivated to get sewing!

4) I was on the lookout for a uniquely South African take on quilting. I'm looking for a perspective that is as unique as say Japanese quilts compared to Amish or Gees Bend or traditional stars and squares. Definitely they draw from a much warmer pallet which makes sense given the landscape. I hope my photos give you a sense of this.

5) One thing is certain, South African quilters take a great deal of pride in simply in the their existence. It was hard to take up quilting in the 1980s when there wasn't much fabric coming into the country. As pretty much everyone I spoke with pointed out, they have done a lot with a few hundred quilters whereas the US has thousands and easier access to resources. My feathers ruffled a little bit at that (not that it's false) but I really enjoyed their work and thrill at South Africa's desire to grow as a quilting community.

5) My favorite quilt. Photos don't do this one justice. Real pattern paper is layered with fabric, lace and buttons to for the girls. It's called "Some Are Born Old." Sad inspiration. Amazing quilt.
Now you can't end on that somber of a note so I present to you two very happy vendors. Why are they happy? Because I have just spent a lotta rand on their hand dyed fabric. It was the only thing in the whole vendors area that wasn't imported and therefore really expensive. Actually it was pretty darn cheep. With currency conversion and all it ended up being a little over $1.25 a fat quarter. Oh yeah. I did some shopping here. He is actually a former chemist (very handy knowledge when you are creating dyes) and she is a former social worker. She had some really interesting stories and perspectives on what has worked and what hasn't when it comes to aid programs. Lance took mental notes. I took home two bags of fabric.

Wednesday, November 5, 2008

Oh Whata Night!

From Lance... : (

From Kristin... : )

Actually I do need to say something else. FLORIDA, WHAT THE HECK WERE YOU THINKING ON PROPOSITIONS 1 and 2?!?!?!?! Bad Sunshine State. No Mickey Mouse shaped cookies for you.

At least we can all be glad that the election is over.

Now we can go back to arguing about Dancing With The Stars.

Tuesday, November 4, 2008

HEY YOU!

Hey! What are you doing? Quit reading this silly thing and get out there and VOTE!

Unless you already have in which case please send me abundant amounts of soy free/vegetable oil free/emulsifier free chocolate.

; )
K

Monday, November 3, 2008

Our house has become a swing state

(sigh)

As I mentioned before, Lance and I are again cancelling each other out electorally. I can somewhat respect his choices for Pres and Congressional Rep. because these are people that I could imagine voting for as well. Sort of. Perhaps on some very strange and backwards world where the Golden Gate Bridge is green or something.

What totally surprised me is how much we disagree the school board nomination and propositions.

How could? I just? What do you mean? But what about? Huh?

We had to adjourn to separate rooms.

He, by the way, is wrong. I was wrong about something yesterday. Today it is his turn.

And he is very very very very wrong. On many things. Not that I'm stewing about this.

Thank goodness the election will be over soon.

Now get out there and vote. Whichever way you go 50% of the Botswana Sells contingent is behind you 100%.

Sunday, November 2, 2008

Happy Halloween!

Hey Everyone,

Lance and I had a really busy Halloween this year. It wasn't suppose to be that involved but ... things happen. In this case, Lance's boss called him earlier in the week to "make sure he knew about the costume party at the Marine House." Um, yes and we were planning on skipping it but now that you mention it specifically ... sure we'll be there!

So. Or should I say "sew" because that is what I was doing on Friday. Pulling together and sewing bits for our costumes. Lance went as
and looked totally awesome. I went as
and nobody knew who the heck I was. She isn't normally as scowly as this so I went for more of a relaxed smirky version. Especially when people asked...

"Are you Laura Croft?"

Sigh.

Actually I was going for Starbuck from the latest version of Battle Star Galactica. (WHICH WAS A TOTALLY AWESOME SHOW!) I made gold hexagon dog tags and everything. Mad props go out to Lance who drank the can of horrible beer that had the only gold paint job I could find. Waste not want not. The other 5 are in our fridge if anyone is feeling brave.

So it was fun.

We left after an hour or so and met up with a few more friends back at our house for a bit of Rockband. Roughly 6 hours later (I'm not kidding here) everyone was stumbling out of the living room, there were high fives all around and exclamations of "Damn that guitar solo..."

All this really is a set up so I can give you the forthcoming quote the day.

We are all in the kitchen finding keys, rinsing bottles etc when I see a HUGE spider crawling on the wall. I haven't posted a pic of one of these lovelies yet. They are skinny but roughly the size of a baseball. They set off motion detectors if that gives you any indication of how bug these things are. Well this one was in softball territory. OMG. I pointed it out and Lance gets the bug spray and starts doing his thing. The spider falls and starts running around the kitchen floor. At this point... one of my guests screams and throws his empty beer bottle at it.

These things happen at 2 am when there are empty beer bottle present.

It totally breaks, missing the spider mind you, and people from the other room come running. Kim asks me what happened and I say in my controlled but admittedly a few sheets to the wind voice:

"An interesting decision was made ... in my kitchen ... by a guest."

She cracks up. I honestly didn't mean it to be a joke rather a measured, rational evaluation of what seemed like an absurd event. In hindsight it was pretty funny. The spider was eventually killed, the glass cleaned up and everyone made it home in one piece. Just another Friday evening at the Sells.